Up at 7am. It took a while to get going — breakfast, packing, the usual slow start. By the time I was ready, a few hikers who’d been behind me had already passed. Story of my mornings.
The big news: no moisture in the tent or sleeping bag. First time since I started. I think the wind helped — it was steady all night, and I’d camped in a hollow. My tent held up perfectly. That alone made it the best morning yet.
A few miles in, I caught up with everyone who’d passed me. They were all hanging at a water spot — whenever there’s water out here, people stop. They drink, find shade if there is any, take a break. That’s just how it goes in the desert. About nine miles later, another water spot, same scene. I ran into Screaming Chicken there and a few others from day one. I finally had cell signal, so I sent off my notes and photos from the day before and caught up with people. I was the last one to leave.
On the way to the next water I got briefly lost. The trail follows a dirt road for a stretch and I missed a turnoff — just kept walking along tyre tracks until I hit a junction and noticed there were no footprints. Turned around. I was probably distracted by my trail mix, which was genuinely excellent.
Eventually caught back up with Screaming Chicken and others. At the next water stop: more drinking, more talking. I had Summer Sausages — a mix of different meats and spices I’d bought two days earlier, actually quite good. Someone found a rattlesnake by the trail. Interesting moment. I’d always assumed rattlesnakes were basically harmless — they rattle first, giving you warning, and the first bite is supposedly dry. Turns out that only applies to adults. Young rattlesnakes don’t rattle at all, and when they bite they release all their venom immediately, full dose, first strike. And there are a lot of young ones out here. The snake was just lying next to the path.
I left last again, made up ground, and ended the day at 16 miles. Three others were already at camp when I arrived — including ThunderPee, who I’d only heard about until now. Also someone from my hotel in San Diego, and a woman I hadn’t met before. I read for a bit. After dark, another woman arrived — she’s cowboy camping, just a mat, no tent. I’d like to try that sometime. But I’m not keen on finding a rattlesnake in my sleeping bag. Maybe when there are fewer young ones around.
Dinner: instant mashed potato folded into a tortilla. Everything goes in a tortilla. It works and it’s easy. Dry camp again — no water on site. You always have to carry enough to reach the next source.
The sun came in late, wasn’t too strong. Wind blew steadily all day — cool, which made a real difference. Clouds kept sliding in front of the sun. Long gentle downhill stretch in the afternoon. All in all, the best day so far.
